Sometimes, explaining new things is easier when you liken it to something people already understand. There are a lot of components and small things to learn when it comes to vaping and weirdly enough, it’s not all that far off looking after and driving your car.
Manual vs. automatic
When it comes to driving, you’ve got two options - manual or automatic. Obviously with automatic you just need to put your foot down and the car goes. Easy. Manual requires a little more effort and understanding what with changing gears and an extra foot pedal. Vaping is the same.
We’d liken automatic vapes to those super simple pod kits and vape pens. The ones where all you need to do is put your e-liquid in then either inhale to vape or press a single button while you inhale. They’re no fuss, intuitive and are great for beginners. They typically come with less power and are the “what you see is what you get” option. However - that being said, that’s plenty for most vapers to be happy with.
If you consider the more advanced kits like box mods, they’re the manual cars of the vaping world. They offer more power, more control and often can do more than your run of the mill automatic. You can change the wattage to suit your tank and coil and you’ve also got other settings like temperature control mode for fancy things like RDAs when you’re building your own coils.
Replacing the fuel filter - a little like your coil
That one little part in your engine (that maybe you didn’t know about until now) is super important. It filters the fuel before it’s heated and used to make your car move. When it comes to your vape, we’d liken this part to your coil.
Your coil has wicking material (usually cotton, wood pulp, flax or linen) that serves to absorb your e-liquid. Once it’s absorbed into the wicking material, the metal heats up when you activate the battery and then turns your e-liquid into vapour. This whole process is like the fuel passing through the filter and onto the pistons.
Like with filters, they wear out eventually too. E-liquid will eventually gunk up the coil (usually after a week or two, depending on use) and will need to be changed. You’ll know the coil is wearing out when your flavour is muted, there’s less vapour or your tank gets a bit leaky.
Different fuel types for different cars
By this, we mean there are different e-liquids that are better suited for different kinds of e-cig. You wouldn’t put diesel in a petrol car in the same way you wouldn’t put a 50:50 nic salt e-liquid in a high powered Sub Ohm vape.
Higher PG levels and higher nicotine levels are best suited to lower powered mouth to lung kits like pod mods and vape pens with a coil 1.0ohm or more. The reason is that the more power your kit has, the harder both the nicotine and throat hit will be. PG gives more of a throat hit and nic salts will be far too strong for Sub Ohm vaping - you’ll end up with a sore throat and a nicotine head spin.
Sub Ohm vapes (with a coil less than 1.0ohm in resistance) are made for low nicotine, high VG liquids. VG is thicker so it needs more power to vaporise. It’s also much more mild on the throat too so is perfect for higher wattage vaping. If you used a high VG e-liquid in a lower powered vape, you’d end up with a gunky coil, no flavour and very little vapor because it wouldn’t be strong enough to evaporate it.
You need to keep it topped up with fuel (read as: e-liquid)
Continuing along the lines of e-liquid, you don’t want that petrol light to flash when you’re in the middle of your journey just like you don’t want to run out of e-liquid in the middle of the day. If you’re going out, it’s always worth taking a bottle with you so you don’t run low. Keeping your tank topped up with e-liquid also helps keep your coil from drying out. This gives you better flavour, less chance of getting a dry hit and also makes them last longer.
Charging your battery
Just like in your car, your vape obviously has a battery too. Looking after your battery and making sure you charge it fully as often as you can, not letting it run completely flat and charging 18650 batteries together all help. With dual-cell mods, keeping your batteries in pairs and equally charged means one battery isn’t putting in more work than the other. Over time, this can end up shortening the amount of time both will last. You’ll have a longer lasting battery (or pair of batteries) and won’t end up with a vape that only lasts a few hours before it needs charging again.
Error codes and engine lights, including an overheated engine
Maybe the engine light came on or there’s some flashing light on the dashboard. You get the same kind of thing with more advanced kits like box mods too. Almost any kit you pick up these days will have overheating protection, meaning if your kit gets too hot to operate safely, it won’t fire. If you have a screen it’ll display a message telling you it’s too hot and if it’s a pod or pen vape, it’ll flash when you try to use it.
There are a few other things that can stop your vape from working. No atomiser recognition is a common one. If your mod can’t detect the tank, it’ll let you know on the screen. Typically, you just haven’t screwed the tank on quite hard enough for the 510 connector to be registered by the chipset. On a similar vein, if you try and use a coil that’s too low (or high) in resistance for your kit, it won’t fire. This it to make sure you can use it safely without any short circuits or excess power flowing from the battery to the tank which is how accidents can happen without these safety protections in place.